As October temperatures begin to drop, red wine lovers are reclaiming
their love for big reds, which held about as much summertime appeal as a hot
shower. Warm weather red rescue came in the form of Pinot Noir, Beaujolais and Barbera. Along with
rosés and crisp whites, these three reds made cool company for fare that called out for juicy, low-tannins
wines with good acid, lighter body and perky fruit.
Now that autumn is in the air, taste buds eager for heartier
foods also begin to crave red wines with more animal – feral wines with bigger
fruit and tongue-lashing tannins.
Curtis 2007 Syrah, $12.95 at Dan's Wine Shop, Palm Desert
Syrah is a red that answers the call to fall. Rich in
flavors of berry compote, Syrah has a meaty, leathery character that, depending
on its style and origin, can also unfurl layers of smoke, herbs and peppery spice.
Whether known as Syrah or by its Aussie moniker Shiraz, this red's flavors and girth play
well against savory fall foods such as game meats, root vegetable dishes, stews and lamb.
So why all the Syrah dissing in the wine press? And why are sommeliers, whose job entails creating a comfort zone around wine, using
the word slutty to describe certain Syrahs on their lists?
One way to answer such questions is to contrast classic Syrah from France's
Northern Rhône region with the grape's behavior and vinification on New
World soils. In the Northern Rhône, Syrah is a powerhouse, albeit
without the head-banging fruit and high alcohol levels associated with some New World namesakes. The assertive flavors of Old World Syrah are woven with olive and smoked blackberry fruit, strung together on an
undercurrent of bacon and tar. In short, a wine that's both sexy and sauvage –
but slutty? No.
Many New World Syrahs that have entered the wine market in
the past decade began their journey from grape to glass in climates warmer than
the Northern Rhône valley. Such wines tend to be less earthy, with more
new oak influence, plush fruit, softer tannin structure, an alcohol-driven richness
and a peppery finish. While big on intensity, warm-climate Syrah can lack the
complexity, balance, ageability and earth-driven nuance of classic Old World wines from Côte-Rôtie and Hermitage.
Spurred by the efforts of a group of Rhône-focused vintners that eventually came to be known as the
Rhône Rangers, plantings of Syrah in California
increased dramatically at the end of the last century, with harvested tonnage jumping nearly one-hundred-fold over the course of a decade,
beginning in 1992. Though Syrah covers more California acreage than any other Rhône variety, the Syrah grape crush accounted
for three percent of the state's total winegrape crush, according to 2010 figures from the
Wine Institute.
New World vines have matured. Site selection continues to evolve. Outside of France, winemakers are climbing the steep slope of the wine-learning curve. Today, California Syrah shines in Edna Valley at Alban and at Kenneth Volk in Santa Maria Valley. Chuck Carlson, one of California's
earliest Rhône champions, chose the Santa Ynez Valley as the
site for Curtis' Rhône-styled wines. Beyond its varied expression along the Central Coast AVA,
Syrah has also found a home in Washington State, where Christophe Baron of Cayuse
makes thrilling Syrahs to rival those of his French homeland. These are gorgeous and sexy wines without a doubt, with no sluts in
sight.
Syrah slammers may reject Syrahs that seem overripe or over-the-top. While that claim has some basis in reality, it is worth noting that five-alarm alcohol levels, heavy wood and intense fruitiness haven't turned American wine buyers off to Zinfandel or big Cabs,
neither of which gets branded as slutty.
Syrah's a hurting varietal right now. Seductive yet shunned,
she languishes on store shelves, passed over for Pinot or some blend that's
neither here nor there. Was the Australian wine glut to
blame? Or was it that newer wine consumers, confused by Syrah-Shiraz or Syrah-Petite
Sirah choose to simply skip it instead? Whatever the reason, cooler climate
Syrahs are not only well worth your wine dollar, but will also land you better odds of
picking a winner under $20 than a comparably priced Pinot Noir or Cabernet
Sauvignon.
New World vintners are now finding their groove with this classic varietal, and the results shouldn't be missed. Get a piece of
great value Syrah, as in the Curtis. If you're game to shell out a C-note or more, you can go home with
a knockout such as Australia's Penfolds Grange, California's Alban and Justin,
or Washington's Cayuse. Mid-range, look for Washington's Abeja and Reynvaan (Walla Walla), Charles Smith (Columbia
Valley) and Betz (Red Mountain),
among others. Go for a romp with Rhône Ranger Justin or Santa Barbara County's Jaffurs. Whether from a warm or cooler zone, Old World or New, take a little ride with the Syrah style that suits your palate.
Syrah's rich payoff will reward your efforts. Swirl, savor and
begin to understand how sultry a wine can be. Just don't call her slutty.
