The wine world lost a force provocateur with the passing of Serge
Renaud late last month. The Bordeaux-based scientist caused a disruptive
moment with his 1991 appearance on the CBS program 60 Minutes, an
episode credited with embedding the term French Paradox in the American
lexicon. In the segment,
Renaud described studies that linked lower rates of heart disease among the
French to their consumption of healthy fats and custom of washing down fat- and
cheese-laden meals with wine. When asked to explain why even the northern
French, whose diet contains very little olive oil, had lower rates of heart
disease than Americans, Renaud said, "My explanation is, of course, the
consumption of alcohol."
By up-ending the prevailing view at the time that only considered
alcohol's potential for harm, televised comments by Dr. Renaud and epidemiologist R. Curtis Ellison, MD created an ensuing buzz that helped propel funding and research activity to delve deeper into the paradox and,
by extension, the nature and prevention of cardiovascular and other inflammatory diseases. The segment, which provided enough fodder to prompt 60 Minutes to
revisit the story in 1995 and again in 2009, also caused Americans to rethink
wine. What followed into the 1990s was a dramatic upswing in American wine
consumption, and a new taste for reds.
While not all of Dr. Renaud's theories gained traction, the University of Bordeaux professor offered the
scientific community a new lens with which to study heart disease and diet.
Specifically, Dr. Renaud's work shed light on alcohol's anti-clumping effects
on platelets and how this action appeared to prevent the formation of blood
clots that set the stage for heart attacks or strokes. His groundbreaking
papers in the 1960s and 1970s challenged conventional wisdom regarding
cholesterol and saturated fat through experiments that linked atherosclerosis and fatal clots with effects of dietary fats on platelet
function and biochemical changes to blood vessel walls.
Perhaps his most far-reaching findings involved studies
published during the 1980s and 1990s on effects of dietary change on health,
specifically, the heart-protective Cretan or Mediterranean diet. A 1995 study by
Renaud published in the American Journal of Clinical Nutrition criticized the
so-called prudent diet, which the American Heart Association championed for heart patients at the time. Renaud's paper showed the prudent diet
was clinically inferior to the Cretan Mediterranean diet of the 1960s, with
more than a 70% reduction in cardiovascular events, heart attacks and overall
death rates in heart patients who followed a Mediterreanean diet that gave
less emphasis to meat and was richer in olive and canola oils, grains, fish,
legumes – and red wine.
Cardiologist Tedd M. Goldfinger, Chairman of the Renaud
Society, an association of medical professionals with an interest in the wine-health connection to which this author belongs, called the Society's patriarch "a champion of health through
nutrition," whose many contributions included scientific insights into
fatty acid metabolism and the range of benefits associated with a Mediterranean
diet on cardiovascular health.
Looking back at his prolific career for an article in the Lancet published on the first
day of the new millennium, Renaud reflected to author Bruno Simini, “If I hadn’t lived with my grandparents and
great-grandparents on a vineyard near Bordeaux,
perhaps this idea wouldn’t have occurred to me. When you see people reach the
age of 80 or 90 years, who have been drinking small amounts of wine every day,
you don’t believe wine in low doses is harmful.”
Renaud passed away within sight of his seaside home in Carcans
Maubuisson in the Médoc, a few weeks shy of 85th birthday. We are
grateful for his contributions, and thankful to have shared in his gentle
presence.
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