You don’t need a wine expert to rattle off white wines that
go swimmingly with fish. Chablis and Chardonnay are high up on the list, with
unoaked versions matching up to a greater variety of seafoods. Oakier styles are
better suited to richer dishes made with scallops or lobster and buttery or
creamy sauces. White and flaky or simply prepared fish topped with fresh
chopped herbs and a squirt of lemon or a drizzle of olive oil call for
Sauvignon Blanc, Sancerre or an Italian white such as Soave or Pinot Grigio. Wine
adventurists might seek out Muscadet or Cava for raw shellfish or sushi while
the aromatically inclined can satisfy their sniffers with Albariño or a white Rhone blend. And let’s
not forget Chenin Blanc, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Prosecco, Champagne,
Vermentino…well, you get the idea. There’s no shortage of white wine choices to
pair with seafood.
Wines served at yesterday's Cooking with Class private wine dinner
But red wine with fish? In summer? Yes, and yes – provided
you choose the right one. To really nail the pairing, consider also how the
fish is cooked and sauced.
For the fish course at last night’s Cooking with Class
private client dinner, I chose the 2010 Dolcetto d’Alba Vigna del Mandorlo DOC
by Elvio Cogno. Chef Dave Schy served a Mediterranean-style rockfish, a meaty
fish sometimes called a poor man’s lobster. Chef broiled the fish with a
dusting of fennel powder and leeks. For the sauce, he prepared a savory tomato
concasse stewed with olives and olive oil, with chopped fennel fronds tossed
atop the fish at the end.
Red wines are unexpectedly delightful with gentle fish
preparations such as this. The lovely Cogno Dolcetto had softened tannins and
just the right amount of acidity to marry with that of the tomatoes. Fruitiness
was balanced by the wine’s savory qualities with anise and mineral on the
palate.
When seeking to pair red wines with fish, look for reds
whose acid and tannin levels are restrained. Heavy tannins can make fish taste
metallic or just plain unpleasant. Also, steer clear of heavy oak, high alcohol
levels and rambunctious fruit. Instead, opt for reds with an earthier, mineral
or herbaceous profile.
Cooler climate and old world wines offer many options for
seafood pairings. As with any type of wine, you’ll want to match the intensity
of the wine to the intensity not only of the fish itself, but also its
preparation style and any sauce.
Is the fish white and flaky or meaty and dark-fleshed? Are
you poaching or baking, or do you prefer grilling and lots of smoke?
Chef’s Dave’s tomato concasse had intense flavors that
matched up with the flavor profile and character of the Dolcetto. For its part,
the Dolcetto had just enough age to yield a softer mouthfeel. Its herbaceous,
mineral core harmonized with the fennel and olive overtones in the dish. Plus, the
Dolcetto had the weight and structure to create a balanced pairing for a
meatier choice of fish.
Other wines that can tackle seafood dishes include lighter
Barberas, Italian Merlot, Bardolino or Lagrein, earthier versions of Pinot
Noir, Beaujolais and Chinon (Cabernet Franc). For more adventurous seafood
pairings, try Austrian St. Laurent, a relative of Pinot Noir, and Blaufränkisch, especially with salmon. Aged
Riojas might cry out for lamb but younger red Riojas pair well with paella. Made
from the Tempranillo grape, Riojas labeled joven or crianza sing with other
seafoods, too.
Angle for one of these summer reds the next time you want to
land a fish pairing that will leave guests or your tablemate surprised, yet
satisfied. “White wine with fish” is an easy formula that works most of the
time, but when you break the rule with the right red, you’ll come to enjoy
another level of dining pleasure.
