With Thanksgiving long gone, save for the poundage left
behind, it’s time to begin planning for rib roast, lamb loin, pork shoulder
braises and bone-in steaks – now there’s some real holiday food.
The December celebrations provide great opportunities to
open those special wine bottles you’ve been saving, whether it’s the big red you
picked up on your last trip to Napa or that wine in your cabinet that just
seems too massive for everyday fare. Now is the time to give those bottles a pop.
Rich, wintry dishes can stand up to the weight of bigger
whites and reds, and vice versa. For whites, look to a Chardonnay that’s seen
some oak or has undergone malolactic fermentation. With any luck, the bottle
notes will give you a clue to both. If there’s no mention of barrel aging or
what’s known as “malo” for short, the watch words in reviews and back labels
include buttery, vanilla, toasty, rich and mouth-filling.
That’s not to say you can’t enjoy a leaner style of
Chardonnay with your holiday meal. Unoaked or crisper styles are usually more
food friendly, and might pair better with the lighter dishes on your table than
a burly Chardonnay.
Other whites you might consider include Roussanne (Andrew
Rich makes a great one, as do many of the Central Coast’s Rhone Rangers) and
the more floral Viognier. Some vintners allow some oak with Viognier, which can
add to the headiness of these wines. With its floral and apricot notes,
Viognier brings its own more festivity to your holiday celebration, as will a
sparkling wine. If you prefer a still wine to wow your revelers, open a
Viognier and listen for the silence of satisfaction.
Red wine choices for your holiday feast cover a lot of
ground. Cabernet Sauvignon is a natural choice, and aged versions with softer
tannins will make great pairings for braised or slow-cooked and roasted meats.
Serve a younger, tannic or fruitier (yes, Napa, we’re looking at you) with that
bone-in steak or filet.
If your holiday meal includes lamb, make your red a Syrah.
Not only is Syrah gorgeous with its exciting, deep color, a captivating,
berry-rich nose and both finesse and weight on the palate, there are also many
styles to choose from. You can go huge with Châteauneuf-du-Pape or go huge at
a gentler price by choosing a winner from Washington state (Reininger and Reynvann
are two favorites) or the Central Coast (Alban, Stolpman and Tablas Creek,
among many others). Don’t forget South Africa and Australia too, and remember
that Syrah wines from these countries are usually labeled as Shiraz.
Big-fruited Malbec from Argentina delivers a lot of value no
matter what your price range. While some can be colossal, Malbec is easier to
pair with food than other big reds because they’re lighter in tannins and thus,
won’t put up a fight with many dishes.
Other big reds to consider include Grenache, Rhône blends,
Petite Sirah and Zinfandel. Italian reds, which some wine lovers equate with
medium-body or a Chianti style, can also be immense. These bigs make great wine
partners for holiday meats and heavier pasta dishes such as lasagna. The
choices are immense too, from Barolo and Barbaresco in the north to the
super-Tuscans and southward for the inky Aglianico and Montepulciano of Campania
and Abruzzo. Italian Primitivo tends not to be as big as American Zinfandel, so
if you enjoy Zin’s flavor profile but just wish it weren’t so aggressive, try
a Primitivo for a change. Tannins can be an issue with some Italian wines, with
Barolo being famously tight after aging a decade or more, so opt for older vintages.
Spain is better known for its medium-bodied Tempranillo than for its
bruiser reds. While Tempranillo will work beautifully with your December
feasts, find complex, elegant versions from Ribera del Duero or wines made from
Monastrell (Mourvèdre) and Garnacha too. You won’t go wrong with dark and
luscious Clio, a Monastrell-based blend. Check the back label for Spanish imports
from Jorge Ordoñez. While he’s now also partnering with others in winemaking,
Ordoñez imports a variety of modern-styled head-bangers from all over Spain.
So what will we be serving for our December food and wine
dinner at Cooking with Class on Sunday, December 22? Make your
reservations, throw on something festive and come find out. Chef Dave and I start
serving at 6 PM, so you can get home in time to wrap a few more presents.
