Wine headaches have received a lot of media coverage lately, thanks in part to a couple of commercial products that claim to remove sulfites
from a glass or bottle of wine. In his June 28th story for Wired, ‘Wine
Sulfites are Fine, But Here’s How to Remove Them Anyway,’ Christopher Null
likened the hot button issue of sulfites in wine to that of gluten in food. As
he predicted, many readers savagely took him to task.
From another corner of the world, University of Otago PhD-candidate
Erica Syzmanski wrote about a small preliminary study in ‘New research: Wine
allergies exist. You probably don’t have them.’ on her probing wine science blog, The
Wineoscope.
In my conference preview article this week for Wine, Wit, and Wisdom, the
official blog of the Society of Wine Educators, ‘Wine Headaches: Is Malo the
Culprit?’ I discussed a few issues regarding biogenic amines such as histamine
and tyramine.
Essential to human health in small amounts, biogenic amines
are present in wine as well as other beverages such as beer, cider and a
variety of fermented and aged foods, including soy products, cheese, fish
sauces and processed meats.
However, whether due to genetics, other medical conditions
or medications, some people can’t process some biogenic amines as quickly or as
completely as needed before reactions ensue, from headaches and rashes to more
serious effects on the heart, lungs and digestive tract.
Although the link between wine drinking and headaches has
been recognized since antiquity, surprisingly little well-controlled research
has been performed to sort out wine headaches and intolerances. One reason is the
barriers to performing experiments on humans that involve alcohol. Many studies
are look-back trials known as observational or retrospective studies, which often
involve questionnaires and self-reporting, two methods that may have serious
flaws.
Curiously, most of the research on wine-related intolerances
and headaches, including their relation to vitiviniculture, has come from
abroad. Indeed, some of the most exciting research has come from Spain, Italy, South
Africa and even China. With its status as the largest wine-consuming nation by
volume, the US stands poised to advance the science of wine intolerances. Perhaps
our academic enology centers will also begin to take a closer look at the
reasons and remedies for such reactions, which are estimated to affect up to
40% or more of certain populations.
Other nations have already begun to act. European and other
global organizations including the FAO, WHO, the European Food Safety Authority
and the International Organisation of Wine and Vine (OIV) are pushing forward
to study the health issues associated with biogenic amine-rich foods and
beverages, including wine and beer. Their actions have included recommendations
regarding viticulture and winemaking itself, including the use of malolactic
bacteria that are less likely or incapable of contributing to biogenic amine
formation in the finished wine.
Today’s wine labels offer few clues for consumers seeking
headache-free wine enjoyment. Given the range of the many factors that can
affect a wine’s biogenic amine content – including viticulture, terroir,
climate, vintage and winemaking decisions besides malolactic fermention such as
aging, storage and fining – we may not be able to accurately predict the
headache- or wine reaction-provoking potential of a given bottle of wine
anytime soon. Notwithstanding, in another post, we’ll look at the types of
wines that could be less likely to provoke reactions in individuals who are
sensitive to biogenic amines.
Scoot over to Wine, Wit, and Wisdom, the official blog of
the Society of Wine Educators to read more about the wine headache conundrum.
Are you able to enjoy some types of wines but not others
fairly consistently? Let us know in the Comments section if you associate
certain types of wines with the ability to provoke headache, migraine or other
bothersome symptoms you’ve experienced.
