Mexican wine is coming onto the radar of wine lovers, thanks
in part to its ambassadors, surging wine tourism and the remarkable efforts of
Mexican winemakers. To reach Tecate, a small, charming city about an hour’s
drive south of San Diego, take the mountainous road that twists and climbs
nearly a half-mile above sea level through rugged Baja California terrain. Famed
for its beers for most of the 20th century, new-century Tecate has
given birth to a vibrant wine culture and local winemaking scene that will
intrigue sip-seeking visitors.
Upper: These wine glasses will soon be filled with delicious
Mexican wines. Lower:
To spotlight seven Tecate wineries, the nearby Rancho La Puerta fitness and spa retreat threw a brunch•wine•bazar tasting and lunch on a
late-July sun- and fun-filled Saturday at its La Cocina Que Canta cooking
school and culinary center. Inside the center’s massive teaching kitchen,
guests tasted white, pink and red wines from Tecate and other Valle de
Guadalupe producers, accompanied by a Mediterranean-Mexican medley of olives,
cheeses, breads and herbed antipasti.
After tasting more than a dozen eye-opening wines and
chatting with the many winemakers who attended, visitors shuffled out to the
resort’s 6-acre organic garden where Chef Denise Roa led an inspiring and
energetic tour. As she sprinted through the garden in her red clogs, a large
sprig of verdant green basil bounced from the chef’s sleeve pocket. Her passion
for food and fresh, organic, plant-based cuisine was on display as she plunged
her hands into the earth to pull out a bright carrot she rocked under our noses,
peeled and sliced fresh tomatillos for us to savor and crushed lemon basil
leaves between her fingers to release their captivating aromas.
Upper: Chef Denise Roa smiles after pulling this carrot from the organic
garden at Rancho La Puerta. Lower:
With a stop to shop at the culinary center’s small shop, the
tour was followed by lunch at a long colorful table. We chose the refreshing
and tasty Ulloa rosé of
Nebbiolo to pair with the range of dishes that included seafood and corn
tostadas, clams, potatoes, fennel, salad and garden vegetables, risotto and
salmon.
As dish after dish arrived, we were immersed in the flavors and
textures of Mexican heritage elements, cleanly prepared to allow their
distinct, full flavors to sing. Instead of obscuring the earthy core of her
cuisine with cream, butter and heavy salting, Chef Roa’s creations tasted bright
and explosive, sometimes accompanied by a tangy tomato jam or a savory yet
simple pesto of olive oil, the garden’s lemon basil and almonds.
Some of the other noteworthy wines enjoyed on our visit were
the 2014 Monte Xanic Sauvignon Blanc, oak-kissed 2014 L.A. Cetto Reserva
Privada Chardonnay, 2013 Emeve Malbec, international varietal wines by
Veramendi, Herencia 2013 Tempranillo, red blends and rosé by Bodegas F. Rubio and the 2012 Ulloa Cabernet-Grenach-Petite
Sirah blend. Wine lovers can expect more excitement for Mexican winemaking as
enologists and winemakers learn more about the region’s terroir and as the
vines mature.
Upper: Ready to pour at the tasting booth of Veramendi, a
female-led multigenerational Tecate winery. Lower:
Give these and other Mexican wines a swirl. Still tough to
find, your best bet might be wine shops or restaurants that specifically
feature Mexican wines. In the San Diego area, The Wine Bank offers a wide
selection or consider trying a few selections at Javier Plascencia’s Bracero
Cocina de RaÃz restaurant.
Sections of the border fence are visible in the rocky
terrain surrounding the Rancho Tres Estrellas organic farm.
The next brunch•wine•bazar event is scheduled for November 20th and is sure to fill up early. The $180 per person fee includes round-trip
bus transportation from the East Mission Bay Visitor’s Center, garden tour,
shopping and lunch at the La Cocina Que Canta culinary center. Bring your
passport, comfortable walking shoes and an appetite for culinary and wine
adventure. ¡Buen provecho!
